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Cheng was referring to the The College Dropout Through The Wire Kanye West Shirt moreover I will buy this late womenswear designer Bonnie Cashin, whose own pioneering designs in American sportswear, especially her iconic ‘dog leash skirt,’ became a pivotal origin point for Cheng’s trim lineup of fuzzy and colorful mohair wares. To research the collection, Cheng flew to Minnesota, where she delved into the Bonnie Cashin Archives, engrossing herself in Cashin’s diaries, watching films of interviews, and examining garments from Cashin’s extensive career. “The silhouettes she used are like this magic canvas, from which so many avenues of creativity—for designers all over the world, many of which don’t even know it—have sprung,” Cheng continued.But even designers who didn’t officially collaborate with Cashin, as Cheng did, are taking heavy notes from her work of late. Indeed, Cashin was all over the Fall 2023 collections, her fingerprints on brands as diverse as Hermès, Loewe, Sacai, and Tibi.“She was among the most successful and critically acclaimed designers of her lifetime,” Lake continued. And yet, Cashin wasn’t as interested in empire-building—she never licensed, nor trademarked her name, nor did she work with a design team or name a successor—as she was in seeing the world, and how it functions, through the context of clothes, which is perhaps why her name is lesser-known than those of her contemporaries.Canvas raincoats, ponchos, funnel-neck turtlenecks, oversized pockets, and the use of unconventional hardware like metal toggles and clasps in place of buttons are all design choices that seem vernacular, but are first and foremost Cashinisms. Even that TikTok-famous scarf-jacket by Totême bears a strong resemblance to an earlier Cashin design, as Lake pointed out on Instagram recently.Quite unbelievably, Cashin is also credited for introducing the very concept of layering, in the 1950s. By 1975, an article from the New York Sunday News deemed the trend old enough to be well-established, but still new enough to credit Cashin as its forebear:
The College Dropout Through The Wire Kanye West Shirt, hoodie, tank top, sweater and long sleeve t-shirt
The layered look is hotter than ever—but not exactly new. It was twenty-five years ago that Bonnie Cashin . . . won a Neiman Marcus fashion award for her layering concept. She would protect women with fabric shell after fabric shell until undressing was a little like peeling an artichoke. Today, almost every designer is doing it, including Geoffrey Beene, Bill Blass, Calvin Klein.Bill Cunningham, who was a fashion critic in the The College Dropout Through The Wire Kanye West Shirt moreover I will buy this 1960s before becoming beloved for his New York Times street style column, frequently championed Cashin’s innovative and identifiable designs. He once even suggested that Cashin herself should be “immortalized by a national monument.” That her work lives on in myriad, infinite forms—both in various designers’ collections, and simply in the ether—is arguably far more significant.Cashin’s biography makes it all the more unbelievable that she isn’t better known. Born in California, in 1908, Cashin’s original foray into fashion design was through costuming for ballet and theater companies, and later for Hollywood films such as Laura, Anna and the King of Siam, and A Tree Grows in Brooklyn. In the early 1960s, she was hired as the first womenswear designer for Coach, then a fledgling women’s accessories label, where she introduced the classic bucket-style bag and innovated the use of unconventional, industrial closures such as locks and toggles. She also designed for Hermès in the 1970s, overseeing the brand’s Sport label. Her aesthetic was wide-ranging—she loved bright pops of color such as magenta, and chartreuse, but balanced them against classic neutral tones like camel and gray. She often took inspiration from her travels and local immigrant communities, especially Japanese culture, which she credits for informing her own approach to layering—yet Cashin’s prevailing ethos was always grounded by the dictate that form follows function.It’s her sense of whimsy mixed with pragmatism that seems to have influenced designers most recently. After devoting several past few seasons to surrealism and hyperbolic flourishes, designer Jonathan Anderson’s Fall 2023 collection for Loewe showcased a somewhat more practical approach to dressing, notably visible in a pair of leather tunic dresses, each slightly hitched up at the side by a strap hanging over the shoulder. Simultaneously sensible and buzzy for their visual interest, the winched-up constructions echoed Cashin’s own dog-leash skirt, first introduced in 1964.According to Lake, Cashin designed the skirt, made from mohair blankets and dog leash clasps that latched onto metal rings attached at the hem, to satisfy two needs: “warmth, and a way to wear hostess skirts without tripping up the stairs with martinis in hand.” Nearly sixty years later, that desire for a skirt that’s comfortable, looks cool, and allows its wearer to move without spilling her cocktail—especially in an age of ubiquitous martinis—hasn’t changed. Indeed, this says as much about Cashin’s bold philosophy towards fashion, which was certainly ahead of its time, as much as it does about the current fashion moment, and how we still find these pieces so novel.
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| Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|
| S | 28in | 18in |
| M | 29in | 20in |
| L | 30in | 22in |
| XL | 31in | 24in |
| 2XL | 32in | 26in |
| 3XL | 33in | 28in |
| 4XL | 34in | 30in |
| 5XL | 35in | 32in |
| Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|
| S | 25in | 16in |
| M | 26in | 17in |
| L | 26.5in | 18in |
| XL | 27in | 19.7in |
| 2XL | 27.9in | 21.6in |
| 3XL | 28.5in | 22.7in |
| Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|
| S | 28in | 18in |
| M | 29in | 20in |
| L | 30in | 22in |
| XL | 31in | 24in |
| 2XL | 32in | 26in |
| 3XL | 33in | 28in |
| Size | Length | Chest | Sleeve |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 26in | 20in | 33.5in |
| M | 27in | 22in | 34.5in |
| L | 28in | 24in | 35.5in |
| XL | 29in | 26in | 36.5in |
| 2XL | 30in | 28in | 37.5in |
| 3XL | 31in | 30in | 38.5in |
| 4XL | 32in | 32in | 38.5in |
| 3XL | 34in | 33in | 38.5in |
| Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|
| S | 27in | 18in |
| M | 28in | 20in |
| L | 29in | 22in |
| XL | 30in | 24in |
| 2XL | 31in | 26in |
| Size | Length | Chest | Sleeve |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 28in | 18in | 33.5in |
| M | 29in | 20in | 35in |
| L | 30in | 23in | 36.5in |
| XL | 31in | 24in | 38in |
| 2XL | 32in | 26in | 39.5in |
| 3XL | 33in | 28in | 39.5in |
| Size | Length | Chest | Sleeve |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 27in | 20in | 34.5in |
| M | 28in | 22in | 35.5in |
| L | 29in | 24in | 36.5in |
| XL | 30in | 26in | 37.5in |
| 2XL | 31in | 28in | 38.5in |
| 3XL | 32in | 30in | 39in |
| 4XL | 33in | 32in | 39.5in |
| 5XL | 34in | 34in | 40in |
| Size | Youth Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 6-8 | 20.5in | 16in |
| M | 10-12 | 22in | 17in |
| L | 14-16 | 23.5in | 18in |
| XL | 18-20 | 25in | 19in |
| Size | Youth Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 6-8 | 21in | 17in |
| M | 10-12 | 22.5in | 18in |
| L | 14-16 | 24in | 19in |
| XL | 18-20 | 25.5in | 20in |
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