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She always has the Jesus Hallowed Be Thy Gains Vintage Shirt moreover I love this state of the world on her mind, so she was brooding on fashion as an escape. She was, after all, showing in the heart of America’s Dream Factory. But ultimately, Donatella saw her collection as a moment of calm, of reassurance. “You go the purest line, the purest shape, because you want something stable.” That state of mind is the start of a new chapter for her. And it’s a message worth getting for the rest of us.The “fashion month” that unofficially began in early February in New York, with Marc Jacobs’ off-calendar ode to Vivienne Westwood, ended this week in Paris. Here, BoF’s editors pick the top ten shows of the Autumn/Winter 2023 ready-to-wear season. Which was your favourite? Let us know in the comments below.Post-pandemic Paris Fashion Week has greater pulling power than ever. Those who aim to play it serious and play it loud increasingly need to be here, ideally with posses of screaming teens outside their venues hoping to see their favourite TikToker or K-Pop star. It’s an unmistakable sign that fashion has hybridised with mass entertainment. Cue everything from horses performing at Stella McCartney and a giant Joana Vasconcelos installation at Dior to Coperni’s attempt to break the internet again with robot dogs and Harris Reed’s camp misstep at Nina Ricci (the issue wasn’t the drag; it was the unpolished execution). But beyond the clickbait, the calmer shows were, paradoxically, the ones that stood out.
Jesus Hallowed Be Thy Gains Vintage Shirt, hoodie, tank top, sweater and long sleeve t-shirt
In an age of sensory overload, acts of reduction resonated most. Balenciaga’s Demna, the Jesus Hallowed Be Thy Gains Vintage Shirt moreover I love this original creator of the viral megashow, headed the other way, opting for a linear outing devoid of all theatrics, save for the emotional show notes. (His most compelling quality is being a romantic, despite his design language being so raw and in your face). The change of tone was expected in the wake of a major scandal over two of the brand’s recent ad campaigns. Stripped back to a simple runway in the symbolic Carrousel du Louvre, where Paris Fashion Week took place back in the days before brands began outdoing each other with their own locations and when fashion shows were just fashion shows, the clothes were more or less the same: deconstruction, reconstruction, a harsh take on ladylike style, and clothing as body sculpting. It was a matter of fact show from one of the few designers working today who is a real dressmaker: less a reset, and more an act of repentance and a kind of clearance.Jonathan Anderson is fashion’s current purveyor of mind-expanding reduction. At Loewe, the stripping down that started with the men’s collection in January reached a peak with blurry memories of pieces impressed onto neat satin dresses (halfway between Martin Margiela and Gerhard Richter), pieces held together by a single pin, and inventive use of supple leather. A tension between control and release ran through the endeavour, which felt slightly erotic and very magnetic, making for clothes that were powerful despite their apparent plainness.Less is always more at The Row, whose shows in a private mansion on Rue des Capucines are some of the most intimate gatherings Paris offers. The Olsen twins have a powerful sense of simplicity that is all their own and yet glistens with memories of Yohji Yamamoto, Romeo Gigli, Zoran and all the minimalist masters. As such, The Row keeps growing in a magnificent niche of deprivation as high privilege; luxury with a monk-like, utilitarian bent. Their offering is for women who have everything and can therefore do with almost nothing. This season, the collection was particularly roomy, wrapping and easy, with the added frisson of a sudden fold, long leather gloves in an off-kilter hue, a beanie with an evening dress. It was a joy to behold: an expression of true refinement and taste, too often a forgotten notion.Louis Vuitton’s Nicolas Ghesquière also pared things back. His examination of French style was visually engaging, with pieces that could translate to real life, and yet the outing was weighed down by the designer’s tendency towards brainy over-complication. Less, in this case, would definitely be more. At Hermès, Nadège Vanhee-Cybulski went for botanical simplicity: her panelled coats and Fortuny-like pleated dresses, delivered in an earthy palette of wood tones, were her most assured so far.
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| Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|
| S | 28in | 18in |
| M | 29in | 20in |
| L | 30in | 22in |
| XL | 31in | 24in |
| 2XL | 32in | 26in |
| 3XL | 33in | 28in |
| 4XL | 34in | 30in |
| 5XL | 35in | 32in |
| Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|
| S | 25in | 16in |
| M | 26in | 17in |
| L | 26.5in | 18in |
| XL | 27in | 19.7in |
| 2XL | 27.9in | 21.6in |
| 3XL | 28.5in | 22.7in |
| Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|
| S | 28in | 18in |
| M | 29in | 20in |
| L | 30in | 22in |
| XL | 31in | 24in |
| 2XL | 32in | 26in |
| 3XL | 33in | 28in |
| Size | Length | Chest | Sleeve |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 26in | 20in | 33.5in |
| M | 27in | 22in | 34.5in |
| L | 28in | 24in | 35.5in |
| XL | 29in | 26in | 36.5in |
| 2XL | 30in | 28in | 37.5in |
| 3XL | 31in | 30in | 38.5in |
| 4XL | 32in | 32in | 38.5in |
| 3XL | 34in | 33in | 38.5in |
| Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|
| S | 27in | 18in |
| M | 28in | 20in |
| L | 29in | 22in |
| XL | 30in | 24in |
| 2XL | 31in | 26in |
| Size | Length | Chest | Sleeve |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 28in | 18in | 33.5in |
| M | 29in | 20in | 35in |
| L | 30in | 23in | 36.5in |
| XL | 31in | 24in | 38in |
| 2XL | 32in | 26in | 39.5in |
| 3XL | 33in | 28in | 39.5in |
| Size | Length | Chest | Sleeve |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 27in | 20in | 34.5in |
| M | 28in | 22in | 35.5in |
| L | 29in | 24in | 36.5in |
| XL | 30in | 26in | 37.5in |
| 2XL | 31in | 28in | 38.5in |
| 3XL | 32in | 30in | 39in |
| 4XL | 33in | 32in | 39.5in |
| 5XL | 34in | 34in | 40in |
| Size | Youth Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 6-8 | 20.5in | 16in |
| M | 10-12 | 22in | 17in |
| L | 14-16 | 23.5in | 18in |
| XL | 18-20 | 25in | 19in |
| Size | Youth Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 6-8 | 21in | 17in |
| M | 10-12 | 22.5in | 18in |
| L | 14-16 | 24in | 19in |
| XL | 18-20 | 25.5in | 20in |
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