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It was Bottega Veneta’s Matthieu Blazy who managed to turn out a take on multiplicity that felt warm and wonderful to look at. Starting off with the I Know Im On The Right Path Because Things Stopped Woft shirt and by the same token and idea of the street, where all walks of life meet, and stretching it towards the concept of an Italian parade, Blazy delivered a line up of looks all different one from the other. His hand felt a little heavy and the resulting offering lacked focus, but one had to admire the level of craftsmanship and attention given to every little detail, from the jacquard textures to the curvaceous cuts of the tailoring. The collection really hit its stride with its loungewear and sleepwear-inspired pieces, as well as the simpler, stripped down items. The other main theme this season was the mix of strictness and seduction: a shift away from Gen-Z towards a more grown up kind of allure in iterations ranging from Helmut Newton-esque glamour, as seen at Dolce & Gabbana with much sparkle and focus or in the lab mutation fantasy of Del Core, a label that is finally finding its identity, to wise riffs of old Armani, which were everywhere.
I Know Im On The Right Path Because Things Stopped Woft shirt, hoodie, tank top, sweater and long sleeve t-shirt
The collarless tailoring and broad shouldered crewneck tops at Tod’s were very King Giorgio, circa 1984, magnificently updated without losing the I Know Im On The Right Path Because Things Stopped Woft shirt and by the same token and classicism. Marching to his own drum, with focus, sensitivity and consistency, Walter Chiapponi has turned the temple of Italian classicism into a quiet fashion force that whispers instead of shouting. Tod’s boss Diego Della Valle’s love for upper class pomp got twisted with a refined fashion sensibility, be it in the play of volumes or the keen use of neutral shades. There were faint Armani echoes, mixed with quite a dose of streamlined eroticism leading for the first time to an animalier print at Calcaterra, a designer who’d really deserve more attention for both sense of volume and accomplishment. Mr Armani himself was very Armani at Giorgio, in a charming and intimate iteration of fluidity, elongation and tons of velvet. At N.21, Alessandro Dell’Acqua keeps pushing forward voluptuous femininity in place of edginess, and it works. This time around, it made for a classy, strict yet erotic outing drenched with Dell’Acqua’s admiration for Mrs Prada while exploring an idea of undressing that is all his own — and captivating.
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| Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|
| S | 28in | 18in |
| M | 29in | 20in |
| L | 30in | 22in |
| XL | 31in | 24in |
| 2XL | 32in | 26in |
| 3XL | 33in | 28in |
| 4XL | 34in | 30in |
| 5XL | 35in | 32in |
| Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|
| S | 25in | 16in |
| M | 26in | 17in |
| L | 26.5in | 18in |
| XL | 27in | 19.7in |
| 2XL | 27.9in | 21.6in |
| 3XL | 28.5in | 22.7in |
| Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|
| S | 28in | 18in |
| M | 29in | 20in |
| L | 30in | 22in |
| XL | 31in | 24in |
| 2XL | 32in | 26in |
| 3XL | 33in | 28in |
| Size | Length | Chest | Sleeve |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 26in | 20in | 33.5in |
| M | 27in | 22in | 34.5in |
| L | 28in | 24in | 35.5in |
| XL | 29in | 26in | 36.5in |
| 2XL | 30in | 28in | 37.5in |
| 3XL | 31in | 30in | 38.5in |
| 4XL | 32in | 32in | 38.5in |
| 3XL | 34in | 33in | 38.5in |
| Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|
| S | 27in | 18in |
| M | 28in | 20in |
| L | 29in | 22in |
| XL | 30in | 24in |
| 2XL | 31in | 26in |
| Size | Length | Chest | Sleeve |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 28in | 18in | 33.5in |
| M | 29in | 20in | 35in |
| L | 30in | 23in | 36.5in |
| XL | 31in | 24in | 38in |
| 2XL | 32in | 26in | 39.5in |
| 3XL | 33in | 28in | 39.5in |
| Size | Length | Chest | Sleeve |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 27in | 20in | 34.5in |
| M | 28in | 22in | 35.5in |
| L | 29in | 24in | 36.5in |
| XL | 30in | 26in | 37.5in |
| 2XL | 31in | 28in | 38.5in |
| 3XL | 32in | 30in | 39in |
| 4XL | 33in | 32in | 39.5in |
| 5XL | 34in | 34in | 40in |
| Size | Youth Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 6-8 | 20.5in | 16in |
| M | 10-12 | 22in | 17in |
| L | 14-16 | 23.5in | 18in |
| XL | 18-20 | 25in | 19in |
| Size | Youth Size | Length | Chest |
|---|---|---|---|
| S | 6-8 | 21in | 17in |
| M | 10-12 | 22.5in | 18in |
| L | 14-16 | 24in | 19in |
| XL | 18-20 | 25.5in | 20in |
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